El Rastro Madrid: The Complete Guide to Spain's Most Famous Flea Market

El Rastro is Madrid's Sunday institution. Every Sunday morning (and public holidays) from about 9am to 3pm, the streets of La Latina and Embajadores in central Madrid are taken over by one of Europe's largest open-air markets: 3,500 stalls selling antiques, vintage clothing, records, military surplus, furniture, tools, second-hand books, bootleg DVDs, fake designer goods, artisan crafts, and several hundred categories of junk that someone might want to buy. It has operated continuously in some form since at least the 15th century.

The market radiates from the Calle de la Ribera de Curtidores — the Street of the Leather Tanners, which explains the market's origins in animal hides — downhill from the Embajadores metro stop. The main street has the most commercial stalls (clothes, leather goods, household items); the real finds are in the side streets and the indoor antique market buildings (Galerías Piquer and the surrounding galleries) where professional dealers sell genuine antiques at professional prices. For vintage records: the stalls on the lower half of Ribera de Curtidores and the side streets have good selections of Spanish rock, flamenco, and international vinyl.

The Rastro on a good Sunday is joyful and overwhelming simultaneously: 100,000+ people, pickpockets (keep bags in front), and an atmosphere that's equal parts market, street party, and neighbourhood festival. The surrounding La Latina bars do roaring business — El Tempranillo on Calle de la Cava Baja for vermouth and jamón, El Almendro for the traditional torrija and cold cuts. Arriving before 10am avoids the worst crowds; the market winds down fast after 2pm.